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DSLR Narrow Band Filters


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#1 woolbrig

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 04:06 PM

With all the down time I've had because of the weather.  I've had way to much time to look at new equipment...

 

I think I want to try some narrow band filtering with my modded DSLR.  I've seen that others have been successful at doing it, so why not!

 

I'm going to start with a Baade​r Narr​owban​d H-Al​pha (7nm​) filter then later get a S-II (8nm) & a O-III (8.5nm).

 

I would like to get filters that will work both with my current DSLR and a CCD to be purchased in the future. 

 

I was looking at this to hold the filters: http://www.optcorp.c...tem-tsfek2.html

 

I'm assuming I would need 2" filters to work with a DSLR.  Would those work with most CCDs?

 

Does this setup sound like it would work ok?

 

Thanks!


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Joe

 

Scopes: Celestron C9.25/Hyperstar, SkyWatcher 80ED Pro, WO Star-71 II Mounts: CGEM (Hypertuned), CG5  Guiding: Orion SSAG/ST80/Mini 50, OAG  Cameras: ASI120MC, ASI174MM, ASI224MC, Canon T3i (Baader Mod), QHY10, QHY23

 


#2 Neil

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 05:22 PM

Hi Joe,

 

It would work but I'd ask yourself the question, do you really want to be changing filters like this during an imaging session? It has the potential to be come a very expensive disaster if you drop a filter in the middle of the night due to fatigue etc... 

 

This is the reason that I bought myself a secondhand 2" FLI filter wheel, it caters for all of my needs now and in the future no matter what ccd camera I buy.

 

In the end it your choices and I know its a hobby etc... 

 

Clear Skies

 

 

Neil.



#3 woolbrig

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 06:23 PM

A filter wheel sounds like a better idea.  I wasn't sure how well it would work with a DSLR .  I was concerned how it would work with my 80ed with reducer and focusing.  Guess it would work ok?


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Joe

 

Scopes: Celestron C9.25/Hyperstar, SkyWatcher 80ED Pro, WO Star-71 II Mounts: CGEM (Hypertuned), CG5  Guiding: Orion SSAG/ST80/Mini 50, OAG  Cameras: ASI120MC, ASI174MM, ASI224MC, Canon T3i (Baader Mod), QHY10, QHY23

 


#4 astrodoc71

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 06:48 PM

Hmmm. Didn't know you could use filters with a dslr. How does that work exactly, placing an Ha or whatever filter over a bayer matrix chip?

Regards

Dave


daveandtelescope.wordpress.com


#5 woolbrig

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 10:35 PM

You just use it as you would any other filter.  Here is a video I found that kind of shows what you can do.

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=E842Rs-iB2I


Joe

 

Scopes: Celestron C9.25/Hyperstar, SkyWatcher 80ED Pro, WO Star-71 II Mounts: CGEM (Hypertuned), CG5  Guiding: Orion SSAG/ST80/Mini 50, OAG  Cameras: ASI120MC, ASI174MM, ASI224MC, Canon T3i (Baader Mod), QHY10, QHY23

 


#6 WarriorsDrink

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 12:00 AM

if you are going to go down the narrowband route with a DSLR be prepared to increase your exposure times, especially in OIII and SII as the signal is so weak. Starting with the Ha filter first is a good idea as the data can be used to great effect when combining with the RGB from the camera

 

I agree that a filter wheel is the better option but not sure how thats going to work with your setup as i don't believe you have room to fit it in between the reducer and the camera, don't know about trying to put it before the reducer. This is why people use the clip in filters when doing narrowband with a DSLR but they are very expensive and of course can't be used if/when you buy a CCD


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#7 Neil

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 08:54 PM

Some of the images shown in the video are bad examples. I'd never image B33 or M42 in narrowband, now adding Ha to RGB is a different story and works very well. 

 

My honest advise would be to focus on Ha, this is by far the most important light source for astrophotography, OIII and SII are a complete pain in the ... well I think you know. Even for me with a dedicated ccd and filter wheel. You need at least double the time on OIII and SII, therefore, I wouldn't like to even try it with a DSLR.

 

The most gain would come from Ha alone and adding this to your RGB. I know the Hubble pallet looks nice but even when you have the necessary data processing it in this manner is not a simple matter.

 

Just my thoughts on this matter.

 

Regards

 

 

Neil. 



#8 woolbrig

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 03:33 PM

Thanks for the info.

 

I'm not sure my current setup is good enough to be able to do the OIII and SII for the length of time necessary for them.  The longest subs I've take so far have been 6 minutes.  I think I may get a cheap manual filter wheel and put in a Ha and LP filter for now.

 

Looking at these:

Filter Wheel - http://www.telescope...rd=filter wheel

LP Filter - http://www.telescope...=skyglow filter

Ha Filter - http://agenaastro.co...7nm-filter.html


Joe

 

Scopes: Celestron C9.25/Hyperstar, SkyWatcher 80ED Pro, WO Star-71 II Mounts: CGEM (Hypertuned), CG5  Guiding: Orion SSAG/ST80/Mini 50, OAG  Cameras: ASI120MC, ASI174MM, ASI224MC, Canon T3i (Baader Mod), QHY10, QHY23

 


#9 amosct3

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 07:34 AM

Hi,
I am going through the same debate now. What did you decide and how are you getting on with narrow band filters and dslr?
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Chris

#10 woolbrig

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Posted 12 May 2014 - 11:38 AM

Hi Chris,

 

Since I started this thread, I bought a hyperstar for C9.25.  I wasn't happy with the DSLR and the noise level so I also bought a QHY10 OSC camera.  This has delayed my testing with the NB filters.  I did get an Ha filter, but haven't had the chance to use it yet.  The skies haven't been been very cooperative this year!


Joe

 

Scopes: Celestron C9.25/Hyperstar, SkyWatcher 80ED Pro, WO Star-71 II Mounts: CGEM (Hypertuned), CG5  Guiding: Orion SSAG/ST80/Mini 50, OAG  Cameras: ASI120MC, ASI174MM, ASI224MC, Canon T3i (Baader Mod), QHY10, QHY23

 





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